Capo Testa is one of our not to miss places. An easy hike through the granite moulded in a thousand different shapes. The Romans also, take advantage of the rocky coastline. It’s possible to see here the ancient roman quarries which supplied them with these tough rocks.
If you want to see a real Mediterranean storm, you could come here when the northwest wind blows and the waves crash on the rocky coastline.
Or if you prefer calm and colourful days, you could visit Capo Testa in a quiet spring one. The path winds its way around big granite boulders, with a beautiful Mediterranean shrub vegetation.
Junipers are shaped by the strong winds and their grey trunks are usually twisted, reminding us that it’s not easy to grow so near to the sea.
The air is scented and you can smell this particular fragrance that we call “Sardinian scent”. It’s the yellow flower of Helichrysum sp. that produces it. It’susually the first scent you can clearly recognize when you arrive in Sardinia, by ferry or by plane, in the spring or summer months.
We end the path at Cala Spinosa, where it’s possible to see the building of the lighthouse and some ancient beach rocks, old coastal lines that became rock as the sea level went down. Here in Cala Spinosa you can enjoy a spectacular view over Corsica and its mountains and take a sea bath in the clear water.
We have lots of places we love in Sardinia and we want to share these with you. But we are conscious that everyone has their own special places and it’s possible you’ll find more and more on the island that you don’t want to miss. If you would visit some of our much loved places tell us what you think. Give us your opinion!
Last week we decided to go away for two days in a camper. For us it’s a new way to organize our hiking trips. Marta, our ten-year old daughter was with us. We rented a camper in Porto San Paolo, ten minutes from home (www.campersardegna.net). We tried a very roomy one, with six beds. Marta was very excited and she checked all the cabinets. She loved this tiny moving home very much! To reach our first camp site we travelled south. The camper was very comfortable and the countryside with its colourful blooms was so amazing, that the journey passed very quickly. We stopped once, to admire the view, when we passed the Cedrino river.
We reached Dorgali and we decided to spend the night in the valley below the town, Oddoene.
We stopped the camper near the river Flumineddu. Before having dinner we had a walk along the river, in the decreasing light.
As the sun went down we listened to little birds preparing for the night, with their last calls of the day. At night we were alone, the town is ten kilometers away. We became conscious of the night life surrounding us. A Scops owl called all night long, with its monotonous, repeated “tyuh”. The river was flowing and it was possible to hear, now and then, some dogs barking in the dark. We woke up early, appreciating being inside nature and being able to start walking so quickly after a good breakfast, without spending time travelling by car in the morning. We decided to go to Tiscali first. Tiscali is a nuraghic village hidden in a chasm in Monte Tiscali which had been inhabited up to the time of Roman invasion. The footpath we chose isn’t the classical one to Tiscali, but we love it very much and we frequently arrive at Tiscali starting from Oddoene, instead of starting from Lanaittu (Oliena). As we were the first to walk on the path that morning, we were able to sight a big male mouflon, a wild sheep typical of Sardinia and Corsica.
We enjoiyed the first flowering orchids, too. After two hours, we arrived at the village. This site is one of the rewarding ones in this area, but as it’s so fascinating, it’s also crowded. So we prefer to arrive in the early morning and we usually avoid visiting at the weekend during the high season. Last week we were alone with the guide of Cooperativa Ghivine. Before guiding us through the village, he prepared a coffee that we tasted in the silence. It was really astonishing to see the remains of the buildings once more, thinking of the villagers and their lives centuries ago hidden in the heart of the mountain.
Time flew quickly on the way back and at noon we were back. We spent the afternoon lazily resting on the bank of the river planning where to go next time with the camper.
I think that living in Sardinia is a real luxury. Mild weather and gorgeous nature are two good reasons to appreciate our island. And there are some simple customs that make you feel good. Having lunch with sea urchins, for us, is one of these. You only need a good pair of boots and a long reed which has been opened with a piece of cork to catch the sea urchins. If you recognize the edible species, you know which one to catch. The right species is a beautiful colour, ranging from a dark aubergine to a light brown or a dull green. According to local people the right months to eat sea urchins are the ones with the letter r in their name. And it’s better if there is a crescent or full moon.
We love to eat sea urchins directly on the beach where we catch them, enjoying the sun and the sea breeze. A piece of good bread and a glass of white wine go really well with this sea delicacy. We open sea urchins with a knife which is better than scissors for this.
A quick wash, directly in the sea and they are ready.
The edible parts are the narrow full orange gonads. I know that this can be a little strange, but if you overcome the feeling you can try a new taste, a very intense one. It’s like eating the sea.
Sardinia has hidden treasures. Gems that you can easily discover outside the usual itineraries. Capo Ceraso is one of these. Ancient rocks, 300 million years, which with strange shapes and spotted with dark yellow lichen, border a colourful sea. An easy hike takes you to the top of the headland. The view is stunning: blue sea, little rocky islands and in the distance, Tavolara with its white ridge. When we arrive here, we usually sit silently.
In the silence some winged friends soon arrive. A pair of raven nests here and they never forget to check who’s there.
On the way back a second world war blockhouse offers another view, this time toward Olbia and its gulf.
Held annually on March 22nd, focused attention on the importance of freshwater sources advocating for their sustainable management. This year the theme is “Water and Wastewater”. We should learn that wastewater is a valuable resource in the circular economy and its safe management is an efficient investement in the health of humans and ecosystems. Have a good World Water Day!
I have an overwhelming love for tiny things. Little flowers, colourful details, really tiny animals. I’ve been observing nature years and years looking at the spectacle of life as portrayed by tiny creatures. I find in tiny things a perfect beauty and a great harmony. In this section I want to share this passion with you.